Saturday, August 1, 2015

Scents of the Week: July 26-31

[All were received as GWP samples or gifts; no affiliate links.]

Happy August! Funnily enough, the last time I did a "Scents of the Week" was almost exactly a year ago (the first is here). I've been a little better about not collecting samples (or trying them instantly and making a decision then and there), so this is the first time I've amassed enough for a proper post. Here we go.

Sunday: Maison Martin Margiela Lazy Sunday Morning edt
Aldehydes, Pear, Lily of the Valley, Iris, Rose Absolue, Orange Flower, White Musk, Indian Patchouli Oil, Ambrette Seeds Absolute. 
[source]
When I sprayed this on paper, it was a snoozefest. Clean, white musk, linen, blah blah. I sprayed it on myself, though, and was instantly horrified. Holy mother of Patchouli. Kind of berry sweet, synthetic, and discordantly one-note patchouli on me - reminds me of those retro fragrance sachets on a hotel pillow, well-intentioned but ill-received. You know, before they realized fragrance sensitivity was a thing. And that maybe not everyone wants their pillow bathed in patchouli. Do I seem fixated? A bit. I think there are other concoctions that smell like this, for far less $ (in fact, YSL Parisienne is vinyl-berry-patchouli on me) and for me, it doesn't evoke a clean, lazy Sunday spent lounging in bed at all. Patchouli. *shudders* I will concede that my skin seems to draw any and all sweetness out of fragrances, especially with patchouli mixes.

Monday: Ralph Lauren Romance edp
Sungoddess Rose, Marigold, Ginger, Chamomile Oil, Yellow Freesia, White Violet, Lotus Flower, Day Lily, Patchouli, Oakmoss, Musk.
[source]

I do not know what a "sungoddess rose" is - do not ask. This ends up smelling cleaner on me than Lazy Sunday Morning. Also, I remember marigolds smelling a bit dirty, and while I get that in the opening (marigold-chamomile), too quickly it all just becomes clean musk. I mean, it's a softened, romantic musk, with just a hint of ginger, but...it's kind of boring, and generic - like the soap in the bathroom of a nice restaurant/boutique. Disappointing, as I know this is a classic, and I usually like Ralph Lauren fragrances (Double Black in the men's line is one of my favorites on S.).

Tuesday: Tocca Florence edp
Italian Bergamot, Grapefruit Leaves, Green Pear, Apple, Ivory Gardenia, Crushed Violet Petals, Jasmine, Tuberose, Blue Iris, Blonde Wood, White Musk.
Many Tocca scents come in mini sprays!
[source]
Florence starts out beautifully. It's a bit candy sweet at the opening, but definitely a fresh, just-bloomed green gardenia at its heart - beautifully mellow, buttery, and green. Gardenia is a hard flower to capture (my mum grew them when I was a kid - they're exquisite, but they don't translate well into scent). But as it wears a bit more, it starts to fray at the edges, as if the petals started bruising. It becomes a little too clean (musk! cursed musk!). Still haven't found a Tocca I liked enough to purchase, even the little bottle. And I don't want for buttery white florals (I'm going to do a full bottle post soon, actually...and maybe one for the in-between travel sizes I have, as well, and then we can all agree that I never need more perfume, ever).

Wednesday: Hermès Le Jardin de Monsieur Li edt
Jasmine, Watery Notes, Kumquat, Grassy Notes. 
[source]

Argh, so frustrating. I like Hermès scents a lot, but they never last on me (I guess that edt is a killer). This one is no exception. It's gorgeous - uncomplicated, and really, this is the kind of "clean" scent that I like - not a hint of musk to be found. It's exactly like breathing in the clean air of some Monsieur Li's garden, serene and calm, the faint breeze causing just a single ripple to echo across the pond. Everything is there, but diluted, in a good way. A hint of floral, a hint of kumquat - like a fruit infused water. Delicious, and perfect for summer, but on me, it's gone within the hour.

Thursday: Penhaligon's Orange Blossom edt (sample from Lizbob)
Neroli, violet leaf, bergamot, citron, cardamom, pink pepper, Calabrian orange, orange blossom absolute, Egyptian jasmine absolute, tuberose, rose, peach blossom, orchid, sandalwood, Virginian cedar, white musk and vanilla.
[source]

Bertrand Dutrafour is the perfumer behind this (I've tried his L'Artisan Piment Brûlant, which very nearly killed me, and S. wears L'Artisan Méchant Loup well, but I don't), and, er, like those two, this one doesn't agree with me personally. Obviously he has it out for my skin chemistry - Orange Blossom smells like cough syrup on me. The cloying, sticky, grape-orange-something that was a relief as a kid but horrifying as an adult. I wish it was more neroli, less tuberose. Actually makes me think of L'Artisan La Chasse aux Papillons, though that is a much lighter, graceful spin on the tuberose + orange blossom combo, and I prefer it.

Friday: Calypso St. Barth Bellini edt (another Lizbob sample)
apple, pineapple, grapefruit, orange, white peach, coconut, frangipani, cassis, freesia, jasmine, orange flower, white musk, amber, sandalwood 
[source]

Um, sorry, guys, I couldn't, not even for you. I opened it without thinking, and nearly cried. I hate peach scents. My sample of Burberry Body flew into the trash so quickly, you don't even know. From what I could remember as I hastily closed it again, I could smell coconut, which is usually appealing to me. But otherwise, nope. Big fat nope.

And then I ran out of samples. What have you been dabbling in lately? Any new fragrance discoveries?